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(Dickinson can’t resist extracting perhaps too-tidy significance from other encounters with 20th-century heroes as well: When McCardell watches Charles Lindbergh’s plane land in Paris after his pioneering transatlantic flight, for example, she finds her faith in American pluck and ingenuity buoyed.) Carnegie-inspired or not, McCardell’s first triumph came when she was lead designer at Townley, constantly battling pushback from her boss there, Henry Geiss

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